Anybody got a decent printable check list for a singe seater with a 582?

or less specifically, a good checklist before flight for any rig that might be a good template to create a personalized one?

thanks bros

Like a preflight inspection checklist? or an in the seat pre engine start checklist?

Pre flight

Or both, I am gathering all things I will need to be a gyro man again.

Bump....
Hey Els did you have a checklist?

I thought I had one at one time....I will keep looking.

Here is one that Tom Duncan made for the Tango.
You could also add a pre takeoff checklist.



1. RIGHT SIDE- TURN IGNITION TO ON POSITION, TRIM ALL FORWARD AND RELEASE ROTOR BRAKE
2. TURN INGNITION OFF
3. WALK TO REAR OF GYROPLANE AND ROTATE THE BLADES 360 DEGREES, WATCH AND LISTEN FOR SMOOTH FUNCTION AND STOP THE BLADES
4. TURN INGITION BACK ON AND SET ROTOR BRAKE
5. CHECK FUEL LEVEL AND ADD FUEL AS NEEDED
6. CHECK REAR CONTROL STICK AND PEDALS INCLUDING CABLES
7. CHECK REAR SEAT BELT FOR SECURITY AND DAMAGE
8. CHECK MAST BOLTS, ROTOR BOLTS AND TEETER BOLT
9. CHECK RIGHT WHEEL AND WHEEL PANTS AND BRAKES FOR SECURITY OR LEAKS
10. CHECK TRIM MOTOR CABLE AND SPRING
11. CHECK ROTOR BRAKE
12. CHECK ROTOR CONTROL TUBES TOP AND BOTTOM BOLTS
13. CHECK WALKING BEAM BOLT
14. CHECK EXHAUST SPRINGS AND BOLTS
15. CHECK SPARK PLUG CONNECTORS AND WIRES
16. CHECK OIL LINES AND COOLANT HOSES
17. CHECK PROP BLADES FOR DAMAGE AND GEAR BOX CLUTCH FREE OF MOVEMENT
18. CHECK RADIATOR AND ATTACHMENT POINTS
19. CHECK 4 RUDDER CABLE PULLEYS FREE MOVEMENT TURN A QUARTER TURN ON REAR KEEL
20. CHECK TAIL EMPENNAGE IS SECURE AND RUDDER IS FREE OF MOVEMENT
21. LEFT SIDE- OPEN RADIATOR CHECK COOLANT AND HOSES
22. CHECK AIR BOX/FILTERS ARE SECURE AND ALL OIL HOSES
23. CHECK OIL AND OIL TANK ATTACHMENTS
24. CHECK CONTROL TUBE CONNECTORS
25. CHECK MAST, ROTOR BOLTS AND TEETER BOLTS
26. CHECK LEFT WHEEL AND WHEEL PANTS AND BRAKES
27. CHECK REAR THROTTLE FOR FREE MOVEMENT WHILE WATCHING FRONT THROTTLE
28. CHECK WHEEL BRAKE LEVER ON FRONT THROTTLE CONTROL
29. CHECK FRONT SEAT BELTS
30. CHECK FRONT NOSE WHEEL
31. CHECK PITOT TUBE
32. SET ALTIMETER
33. BUCKLE IN CLEAR PROP AND WARM ENGINE TO 120 DEGREES
34. CHECK RADIO AND INTERCOM

One from the flight star
N863JD Flightstar II Checklist
Preflight
COCKPIT
SWITCHES-OFF
BATTERY SWITCH-OFF
AVIONICS-OFF
FUEL QUANTITY-CHECK
FUEL FILTER-CHECK
BUNGEE-CHECK
AIRCRAFT
PROP & SPINNER-CHECK
LEFT SIDE ENGINE & EXHAUST-CHECK
CHECK OIL
LEFT SIDE BRAKE-CHECK
LEFT WING LEADING EDGE CHECK
CHECK STATIC PORT CLEAR
LEFT WING TIP CHECK
LEFT WING AILERONS CHECK
EMPENNAGE CHECK
LEFT STABILIZER CHECK
LEFT ELEVATOR & TRIM TAB CHECK
VERTICAL STABILIZER AND RUDDER CHECK
RIGHT ELEVATOR CHECK
RIGHT STABILIZER CHECK
RIGHT WING AILERONS
RIGHT WING TIP CHECK
RIGHT WING LEADING EDGE CHECK
RIGHT SIDE BRAKE CHECK
RIGHT SIDE ENGINE & EXHAUST CHECK
AIR FILTER CHECK
HOSES CHECK
BEFORE START CHECKLIST
SEAT BELT & SHOULDER HARNESS-ON
BOTH DOORS CLOSED & SECURE
ALTIMETER SET
THROTTLE BACK, TRIP NEUTRAL FEET ON RUDDER
PUT PARKING BRAKE ON

START LIST
MAG 1 ON MAG 2 ON
FUEL PUMP ON
AREA CHECK THEN CLEAR PROP
TURN BATTERY MASTER ON (IF COLD COUNT TO 4) THEN
PRESS RED START BUTTON
WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING SMOOTH AT 2200 RPM
TURN ON THE AVIONICS MASTER
WHEN THE OIL TEMP HAS REACHED 122 DEG. F
OPTIMUM OIL TEMP RANGE (140-170 DEG. F)
MAX ( 190 DEG. F)

A 10 minute break will be in order after all that.

Yeah you'll have to sit back have a smoke, and and a shot...

The way we used to preflight C-130's was 2 wings, 4 engines, 6 tires, check, good to go!

(not really) but did see a few flight engineer pre flights that were not much more thorough than that.

Awesome Els thank you. This will give me a starting point.
I know how I did it before, but now I have someone asking me to show them something in writing.
Condiditon of use for free runway and hangar!

Henry,

as for the engine :

unlike my counterparts in the hangar, I am doing a quick engine inspection to be sure the prop is free and that nothing is lying on the engine and I put the chocks under main wheels and start the engine .. I leave it turn 3 minutes and the I get in the seat and increase RPM checking EGT especially at 5700 rpm and full throttle

5600/5800 rpm is the most dangerous zone for the 2 strokes ... this the zone where the jet needles are still in the needle jets ( controlling the fuel flow), this is in this zone that you are the most likely to detect an Air leak in the engine making the engine turn lean (air/fuel ratio) .. and size ..

at 5600/5800 I check my egt's don't exceed 580 C° if they does I investigate ( and it happened to me a few times)

when I have made the engine turn a bit (4 minutes or so) you will have increased oil, water, fuel, air pressure and it will be much easier to detect a leak then If you had done your engine inspection without having made it turn before ... t


after this I separate my inspection in 4 "items" : air/ oil/water/ electricity /fuel

- Air (capital for a 2 stroke engine)

. air enters the engine through the air filter so you check it is clean and perfectly tighten to the carbs and that the safety wire is in perfect condition, you also check your log to see if it is not too old (I change it or clean it every 50 hours)
. I check every 20 hours that my carburettor blowl gaskets are wet and in perfect condition
. after this I check really well my carb flanged are in perfect state ... Air must to enter the engine at all costs .
flange are affected by the sun, the UVs are causing cracks in the rubber , you have to take the air filter in hand and press downward and upward observing the flanges to verify that cracks don't open under this efforts ( most of the time the cracks are not visible when you don't bending the rubber a bit doing this you will also verify the flanges clamping are correctly tightened
. air go out of the engine by the exhausts, so you verify that every bolt is secured , that all the springs are there and that all the safety wires are in place and good shape

- oil
I verify that the level of the tiny oil bowl is correct ( I am speaking about the oil that lubricate the rotating fuel intake system) , if you have an old pre-mixer you'll have to verify is also ( I don't have)
and of course I check all oil tubes and clamps are ok

- water

I verify all the cooling system, hoses , clamps, radiator, and of course the coolant liquid level in both bowls

- electricity

I inspect all the wires , connectors , spark plug connectors ( you press on each and make sure there is no play), I change them often.

- fuel

I verify the fuel circuit from the tanks to the carbs .

Thanks Giro...A good practice to get into is to NEVER place tools or anything on the engine. I would always place tools on the seat, on a towel or something. I now use a dedicated tool cart, but NEVER, NEVER place tools on the engine..

Thanks guys, Jim sent me the checklist for the vortex and its spot on as you might expect, I may add some things to it as my rig has some features not on the regular Vortex.
For instance the pnumatic trim system and a few other techno toys...
Should be delivered Friday!!!!!!!!

I'll keep my fingers crossed that it makes it there OK.
Pray for calm seas.......

100% OK, but I can't underestimate my own stupidity ....the main issue on my gyro is me ...

ELWOOD!!!!!!STOPPPPPP!!!!!!!
I got enough to worry about!

In my really humble opinion there is not only one way of performing a pre-flight inspection and you have to choose one and follow it



in my view there are 2 main routes

1/ the first method involves to thinking in terms [b]of vital functions[/b] :

- frame resistance , looking for cracks in the frame, checking the tubes angle have not changed, checking the main structural bolt nuts are still tightened etc.
- rotor , looking for cracks on the blades, checking the bold nuts are still tightened etc
- controls
- landing gear
- engine fuel
-engine cooling,
- engine air etcetc


in this method you check that the mechanical parts involved in every vital function are working

2/ the second method involves in checking things "geographically"

for example you start your checking from the nose to the rudder, checking every thing attached to the main tubes, then you go from the main wheels to the rotor

as for the engine, only think in terms of functions coz on an engine you have not path the follow as you have with the rest of the gyro where you follow the tubes and check what is attached to the tubes, an engine is a volume, not a line ..


in both cases you have to follow a logic.


the dangers of the written check lists are :

- the false feeling that the list covers all
- the lists that don't force you to have a manual action, if your list does not require you to manually touch what you are checking you end up saying this : "yes", that " yes", this "ok" ... and it becomes automatic ...
for example when you check the commands rod tubes ,take the tube in a hand and the stick in the other hand an produce a mechanical effort to detect the plays that could appear
when your control is only visual take the habit of putting your forefinger on the part you are checking ... whatever the action , have an action ..

and one other thing, perform post flight quick inspections at least at the beginning, make short flights, check, fly again shortly and then over the time fly longer etc etc

the American Mixed gas diving school IANTD also teaches to be aware of "human brain optimism", it is not concious but we all tend to think , ok it will do , it will do ...

I take an example :

on da boat I performed my "pre-flight" rebreather inspection, I don't know why but the vacum test was ok ( you suck air in the breathing loop until you breathing hoses get flat and you check they stay flat for one minute indicating the loop is sealed) , the positive pressure test was ok too ...
when i started my descent to get on a 300 ft deep sea bed ... I heard a gurgling in the breathing loop , I was only at 30 ft ... and I said to me, I did the test everything is ok ... but arrived at 60 ft I said no .... I switched to opened circuit on one of my nitrox stage tanks and went back to surface ... the loop was full of water
the lesson is that during a few seconds I said to myself ... "it will do it is ok" ... and no ... it was not ok ...human brain optimism is one of our worst enemies


but above all don't stress ! a preflight is there to bring you serenity ... not stress

the most important thing is the "Man-machine" relationship .. still love your gyro, respect it , clean it, and she will give all she has ...

All that you say is true Frenchman!
I particularly liked the line that a pre flight is there to give you serenity!
I never really thought of it that way, thank you.

gyros are not silent killers waiting the right moment to stab you in the back ... they are simple machines with very few and not complicated moving parts
technical solution are well known
there is not reason to stress, only reasons to verify all is ok , tighened, replaced when it is time that's it

I always broke the checklist down into two. Daily and pre-flight. The daily is far more complicated and the preflight was basically the integrity of the controls from your hands to the head and the fuel levelalso like Girodreamer said - the pilot, the most important part of a checklist. (and a pee before you strap in).