Hey Stan, Do you know of any small tables that you can mount a skilsaw under and make a small table saw? I have a few small projects here I am working on at the house and I need a table saw, But I already have 4 skilsaws and do not want to buy a full blown table saw, I just need to rip some wood strips, something that a table saw would do great on, but not so much trying to use a handheld saw.
Just wondering, I would rather buy something I can use now, and perhaps again later without spending the day building one.

Scott...Just take a sheet of 3/4" plywood....raise your circular sawblade....screw the saw to the plywood
...then turn your saw on and drop the blade through the plywood.

Flip the plywood over, and put it on some saw horses...and voila...you have a very handy table saw. Just screw a straight scrap of wood parallel to the saw blade the width you want ripped
..and this will work very nice and accurately.

I have done this several times as I do not have a portable table saw...because I am a .

Hey great minds think alike!
DONE! works great!

Damn, you are fast!

Well as you can see, I didn't waste any time building a stand..LOL!

I just needed to rip some 1 1/8" 2x4 scraps, I had to cut a hollow closet bi-fold door shorter and need to fill the ends. Now to get out the glue!

I had a old man (about 80) build the cabinets in my first house out of maple and they were going to be stained. He would only use a hand saw because he said power saws tend to leave burn marks on the wood.

I have found that only dull blades burn wood, But I am not a cabinet maker.

I always run sawed boards through a jointer, burn marks or not. Burn marks result from three main reasons. Dull blades, blade out of parallel with the path of the wood, and the wood stopping or slowing down going through the saw. Cabinet shops typically use power feeders instead of humans pushing the material through in intermittent stopping and starting. Nothing like a smooth steady feed rate of the material. I do not have a power feeder except on my planer. You can get by without, but if I had a cabinet shop that ran hundreds of feet of stiles and rails a day, a power feeder is a must. I am not a machinist , 0 experience, but I bet the above three reasons apply to metal as well.

I have seen a few magicians do hand feeding a lathe with Schaffhausen accuracy but that's the exception.
Machine feed is always preferable if available

I put crown molding up on my kitchen cabinets last weekend. I've never done that before and was kinda nervous because the molding that we bought that matches the cabinets was about 600 bucks, so I didn't want to screw that up. I did a bunch of research on crown molding and then I purchased a jig called the Crown-Master that lets you cut molding right-side up so you don't have to flip and all that stuff. I also used a glue called 2P-10 which is a cyanoacrylate type of glue with an accelerator that you use to glue the molding together on the ground before you put up to the cabinet. It's super quick so when you put the parts together it sets in like 5 seconds.

I have to say that I was impressed at how the project turned out, even for a super novice like me. I did take the extra time to make sure my saw was square and checked the 45 degree angles with every cut. I would highly recommend this jig and glue if you ever consider crown moldings.

Cool! looks great.

Very nice work!

Its looks so good its giving me a woody

Like I said, I cant even chop fire wood right